PERU Part 2: Cusco & Machu Picchu

Our flight to Cusco left around 9:30 in the morning.  It was a short flight from the coast (Lima) to the Andes mountains.  Cusco is a city at 11,000 ft and we could really feel the difference after coming from sea level.  We were picked up by another guy named Cesar.  Cusco seemed to be a much cleaner city and the traffic was slightly less crazy.

When we arrived at the hotel we were offered Coca tea - it's made from coca leaves which are an essential part of making cocaine.  It's supposed to help with the altitude and we all happily sipped it down.  I can't really say that it made me feel any different, and I'm really not sure it did ANYTHING for the altitude.  Now, I just really hope I don't have a random drug test at my new job because I will fail.

Coca Tea

 After dropping off our luggage at the hotel and grabbing a quick bite to eat, we jumped back into the bus and began touring the ruins around Cusco.  We started at Saqsaywaman (pronounced "Saxy Woman").

Exactly how I picture Peru: llamas/alpacas, ruins, and mountains. 

 The most impressive part of the ruins was that they brought all of the rocks in from a quarry 20 miles away... and they did it all by manpower.  Then, they cut each stone and strategically placed each block.  They also left any large rocks that were naturally part of the landscape untouched.  They didn't mess with mother nature which is why they brought the rocks in from the quarry.  They also brought in soil to be able to have flat areas for festivals, etc.  

Looking down over Cusco.  

 Next stop was Q'enqo.  This area was used for mummification and animal sacrifices.  It was sheltered in a cave and the large rock alter was very cold to touch.  

In this area they also have a LARGE statue of Jesus that was given by Palenstine as a symbol for world peace.  

We walked around a cathedral in Cusco that had old Incan ruins inside.  There was a horrible earthquake many years ago that damaged the church but the ruins were completely unchanged.  The flat rocks are fit together so tightly that you can't insert anything between them.  They also didn't use mortar in these buildings (some did... but not these).  They used a double wall for significant buildings/temples.  The walls were angled and the windows/doors were trapezoids to prevent damage during earthquakes.  All the work was done by hand using hematite stone, hammers, occasionally chisels, and blocks of wood which they would wedge into cracks and then wet with water, allowing the wood to expand.  Pretty amazing. 

They cut some pieces with specific shapes that fit together to add strength to the buildings.  

Our tour guide, Fernando, realized we were all exhausted and took us back to the hotel.  We had about an hour to find dinner and then we had tickets to another dancing show at 6:30.  I walked down the street to a supermarket to get bottled water and bought a queso empanada for dinner.  It was delicious.  I loved being forced to use my limited Spanish skills to fend for myself around town.  

The show was more cultural, but less entertaining than the other show. 

The next morning, Jolyn and I walked around Cusco before our tour guide picked us up from the hotel.  We took pictures of the LARGE murals around town, and the many cathedrals which were so beautiful.   

It was a BEAUTIFUL mural up close... but with a LOT going on. 

Our tour guide picked us up at 8:00 and we headed to Pukapukara (another ruin site).  We stopped at a llama park to learn the difference between llama/alpaca, etc.  We also stopped in Pisaq to shop at the Indian markets... then in Urubamba at Alhambra restaurant for a buffet lunch... last stop was Ollantaytambo where we viewed more ruins before catching the train to Machu Picchu town. 

Alpaca... with dreads.  

Alpaca... again with dreads. 

ADORABLE alpacas. 

Llamas. 

Alpacas are used more for fur... llamas were used more for transport, etc.  This area had lots of demonstrations of all the intricate colorful weavings/fabrics and how they are made.  It was so impressive. 

Next stop: an overlook a the Sacred Valley. 

I snuck this next picture from the bus: 2 adorable little girls in native Quechua dress. 

After shopping in Pisaq and lunch at Alhambra Restaurant, we made it to Ollantaytambo.  This was an impressive ruins site.  Unfortunately, it was raining, but that didn't stop us from walking around.  

We spent a LITTLE too long taking it all in, and we NEARLY missed our train.  Luckily, the train station was about a 10 min walk/run in the rain.  We barely made it on time.  The closed the doors immediately behind us.  

The train ride was a little over an hour.  It followed the Sacred River all the way to Aquas Calientes, the town where Machu Picchu is located. 

You can get off the train before the town if you are hiking the Inka trail.  It takes 4 days to hike from this point to Machu Picchu. 

Aquas Calientes is an ADORABLE town.  There are no cars allowed in the town at all.  The only way in is to hike or take the train.  There are buses, but only to take people up and down from Machu Picchu.  The town is small and it's easy to walk from one end to the other.  This area borders the Amazon rainforest and things were very lush and green.  It was misty and humid.  I absolutely loved this town!  

It was late afternoon when we arrived at our hotel.  I wasn't hungry but I joined 2 other ladies for a walk around town.  We stopped for a drink and shared a Pisco Sour (45% alcohol).  It's a Peruvian drink made of Pisco liquor, lime juice, and egg whites (like meringue).  It was delicious (and powerful). 

Yummy Pisco Sour

The next morning, some of us woke up around 4:00 am to have breakfast and make it to the bus stop by 5:00 ish.  The first bus left at 5:30 am to catch the sunrise at Machu Picchu.  When we got to the bus stop there was a HUGE line.  It was totally worth it though.  We arrived at a perfect time.  Just as the sun was coming up over the mountains and shining light on the ruins of Machu Picchu.  

In the distance there were snow covered peaks visable and the early morning sun made them stand out against the blue sky.  The picture doesn't capture the beauty of it. 

We had about an hour and a half to walk around on our own, then we headed back to the gate to meet up with the rest of our group and our tour guide Esmeralda.  Once we were all reunited, we walked through the urban section of the ruins (where the homes, schools, temples, etc are located).  The other sector of the ruins were terraces for agriculture and storehouses.  

Looking at the agricultural sector, from the urban sector. 

They had roofs made of straw.  They collapsed when the
ruins were abandoned by the Incas. 

The semicircular building is the temple of the sun.
Tourists can not enter it anymore because it is geologically unstable?
I read that somewhere. 

Notice the curved rock in the corner. 

The main temple.  The collapse on the right side is due to the ground sinking. 

Intiwatana; believed to be a sundial and to provide energy. 

Inca stairs. 

 There really aren't words or pictures that accurately describe Machu Picchu.  It was a magical experience.  One I will never forget.  Despite how awesome it was, I left around 11:30ish to come back down to Aguas Calientes town.  I was exhausted and it was SO hot.  I could feel myself getting sunburned on my face and my clothes were sticking to me.  I really, really, REALLY just wanted to sit down in a cool place for a while.  So, I took the bus back down with a few other people, grabbed a sandwich, a diet coke, and a small piece of Peruvian chocolate from a small store and sat in the cool, dark lobby of the hotel to eat.  It was great. 

After lunch, I was feeling a little refreshed and decided to walk around Aquas Calientes.  I had a LOT of Peruvian Soles leftover (their currency) so I shopped at some of the local stores and indian markets.  I bought an awesome book about Machu Picchu and Inka history.  After a few hours of taking in the awesome little town, I headed back to the hotel which is right on the river.  They have a back patio overlooking the river and I sat there under the canopy reading until time to leave for the train.  

Sights around Aguas Calientes: 

The flag of Cusco. 

That evening we took the train back to Ollantaytambo where our bus driver Issac picked us up.  We got back to Cusco LATE that night.  I was too tired to shower (even though I was so gross).  The next morning we were able to sleep in a little bit.  We left at 11:00 for the airport to fly back to Lima.  We had an 11 hour layover in Lima and Cesar, our dear friend/tour guide offered to cook us all dinner!  We took a bus to his house (with all of our luggage).  He had the table beautifully set and had made fresh ceviche as an appetizer, we had a main dish of seasoned fish, rice, and yuca (similar to potato) and chicha (a purple corn drink).  Dessert was a passionfruit cake.  He went WAY over the top!  It was so delicious!  I can't thank him enough.  That was so much better than sitting in the airport for 11 hours.  

We all had late (or should I say EARLY) flights so we spent time hanging out in the airport until the last minute.  Saying goodbye to this group of people was really hard.  We learned a lot about each other, some things were very personal.  We  developed such a strong bond in such a short time.  

We boarded our flight at about 1:30 am and I crashed.  I got a window seat in an exit row (LOTS of leg room).  I put my eye shades on, got comfy with my pillows and blankets, and fell asleep before take off.  I woke up when they told me to put my seat back up as we were coming into LA!  8 hours and 20 minute flight and I slept the WHOLE way.  I had a 4 hour layover in LA which gave me plenty of time to get through customs, get some breakfast, get to my gate, and read my Machu Picchu book.  

I finally arrived in Reno around 2:00 pm, ~28 hours after starting the journey home from Cusco.  As awesome as the trip was, I was extremely happy to get home to my husband and dog.  After a long hot shower and several loads of laundry, I finally started to feel clean again!  

The trip was awesome.  I'm so blessed to have had this opportunity.  Sorry for the long posts but I took 728 pictures while on the trip, so believe me, the posts could have been longer!  

I'd love to tell anyone about this trip if they want more information re: the outreach,etc.  Feel free to contact me!  I'm always happy to talk more about it!  :)  

PERU PART 1: Lima

I'm sorry I didn't post to the blog while I was traveling.  Wifi access was usually only available at the hotel and by the end of the day I was too exhausted to do anything.

Peru was amazing.  I went with a group from Wheels for the World as part of a mission trip where we distributed wheelchairs to people who need them.  We spent the first 8 or 9 days in Lima.  We stayed in an area called Miraflores but our wheelchair distribution sites were ~ 1 hr north in the neighborhoods of Comas and Los Olivos.  The outreach lasted 4 days.  On the other days, we had lots of opportunities for sightseeing.

South America is getting ready for summer.  It's hot and humid.  Apparently, it NEVER rains in Lima.  It's very dusty and the humidity seems to make the dust stick to everything.  Peru has three main sections (from west to east): the coastal area on the Pacific Ocean, the Andes mountain area, and the Amazon rainforest.  They all have different climates.

We spent our first full day going to both churches to meet the Peruvian people we would be working with.  We talked and played games.  We sorted wheelchairs and walkers/canes/crutches and planned how things would flow during the outreach.

Hillside in Comas. 

We set up stations for each team (which included a therapist, mechanic, translator, and support person). 

 With all of those people on each team, it got very crowded in this room sometimes: 

The Peruvian people were so happy to get new chairs.  Peru is a harsh environment for wheelchairs and many people came in chairs that were falling apart.  

Out with the old blue chair... into a shiny new black chair!

Our team consisted of: myself, Thomas (mechanic who is only 17 years old and on his first trip) and Rosario (who has a 17 year old son of her own and LOVED picking on Thomas... she is native to Peru and was our tourguide for all the sightseeing).  I know I'm biased and all the teams were awesome, but our team was BY FAR the best!!!!  :) 

Exhausted at the end of day 1! 

Day 2 started with more people showing up with very poor equipment... uneven crutches... broken wheelchairs... taped equipment,etc.   

 Everyone had to work... I added a seatbelt to the chair while Thomas, the mechanic, worked on more difficult tasks (like cutting leg rests, etc).   At the end of the day I was usually covered in dirt and dust.  Luckily, I brought along some Tide and washed some clothes at the hotel... the water turned completely black.  We got filthy... every day.  

At the end of Day 2 we spent a little extra time loading up the remaining equipment so we got back to the hotel a little late.  We decided to stay in and ordered Dominoes.  

But, to spice up the meal and make it a LITTLE more Peruvian, our friend Cesar showed up with tons of native fruit.  He gave us all a taste and explained what everything was.  

Granadilla fruit

MY FAVORITE: Chirimoya!  Tasted like yogurt!  

Pacay fruit - looked like cotton! 

Dessert at one of the restaurants!
And I ate it all!!!  

Day 3 of the outreach was at the second church.  We saw some interesting things:  

The ENTIRE operation... towards the end... notice the lack of wheelchairs
and the FULL waiting area off to the left side of the picture.  

This was a difficult case for me: this guy had a diagnosis of "quadriplegia" however after talked with him and his mom we found out that it was a gradual onset starting at age 12 and now he's 15 and can't move at all except a VERY little bit of finger flexion.  He had full sensation throughout his body, excellent cognition, but no motor function.  I'm not sure what he had but it wasn't quadriplegia.  

 This little guy was Sebastian.  He was 5 years old.  His mom said they pronounced him dead at birth and he didn't breathe for 10 minutes.  Suddenly, he started breathing on his own.  He had never had a wheelchair before this one.  His mom had carried him everywhere in her arms.  

 At the end of the outreach the took the rest of the equipment and transported to a warehouse I think.  It was mostly pediatric wheelchairs and walkers/crutches.  The method of transportation was pretty interesting: they piled them as high as possible and tied them down with a large net. 

This picture sums up Lima in my mind: mountains in the distance; overcast skies; humid and misty; bright and colorful yet dirty and dingy.  

To celebrate the end of the outreach, we went to a dancing/dinner buffet on the last night.  It was amazing! I sampled all the Peruvian foods (my favorite was the ceviche - fish/octopus cooked in lime juice with onions and spices).  The show was amazing!  The dancers are so talented and she showed dances from the different areas of the country.  

We had lots of time for sightseeing.  

This was the old train station turned library:

The architecture around town was amazing.  There was beautiful rod iron everywhere;

We were able to tour the Convento de San Francisco:

 We walked through the catacombs: 

Yep, those are skulls and femurs.  

We saw the governmental buildings with their stoic guards: 

We visisted el Parque del Amor in Miraflores... right on the Pacific Ocean.  

There is a large statue of a couple kissing and every year there is a competition to see which couple can kiss the longest.  

Loren, Cesar and I went off in search of an adorable coffee shop we had passed several times.  It was great.  We sipped cappuccino, espresso and ate pecan pie and suspiro de limena (sigh of the Peruvian woman) - it was a type of pudding with whipped topping and pecans inside.  It was AMAZING!  

I was SOOOO happy to meet Loren!  She is hysterical!  

Oh so yummy! 

Thanks again Cesar!!!!!! 

Here's a video of an ambulance in Lima.  I think it explains what the traffic was like in Lima. 

And here's a video of Thomas and his mom dancing to the amazing Peruvian music that was graciously provided during the outreach to entertain the people waiting for wheelchairs.  

The next morning, about half of the group, including myself, left for Cusco/MachuPicchu.  The other half of the group left for the airport late that night to catch their flights back to the US.  It was really sad to say goodbye.  I have met some amazing people... and I plan to keep in touch with many of them if possible!  Thanks to everyone on the team for being so amazing!  And thanks to my new Peruvian friends for being so amazing as well!  

Stay tuned for Part 2: Cusco and Machu Picchu!!!!